Thursday, January 21, 2010

PARIS - MENSWEAR AUTUMN/WINTER 2010 - DAY ONE


entitled "hidden", korean designer juun j presented a collection that implied everything the title suggested. swathes of fabrics cocooned the body. a trend that has become one of the biggest themes that has come out of paris in the past few seasons and continues its momentum for 2010. voluminous coats were worn over drapey light weight jersey or fine gauge sweaters, a staple in every juun j collection realized in his familiar colour palette of greys and blacks in oversized proportions paired with drop crotch trousers that limited its volume to the upper half of the leg. he also displayed his ingenious way of using zippers not just as a decorative touch, but an added element that heightened the dramatic volume of the clothes that when unzipped revealed another layer in contrasting fabrics or colour. every part of the body was covered from the snood that acted as hood to protect the head to the gladiator style boots and sandals, no flesh was exposed. in summary it had all the trademarks of the young designer. surprisingly, after all the interpretations of military influence we've seen first in milan and then in paris, with special attention given to the trench coat, it was notably absent from the korean designer's runway. the same designer who has built his reputation partly because of his never exhausting ability to find new ways to tweak the iconoclast since his debuted his collection a few years ago. still, even without it, this was still a collection that displayed the growing confidence of a talented young designer.



photo: catwalking.com